Custom Tuning Step 1 of 3
by Michael Decipha Ponthieux
This page ONLY applies to those whom were directed here AFTER receiving a custom tune from me.
Last Updated: 2018-09-16
DO NOT, continue reading this page until AFTER you have read over and verified the Pre-Tune Information and
Initial Tune Instructions
If you have a quarterhorse I highly recommend using TunerPro RT, if you don't have it setup yet the Getting Started Write Up will give you all the details.
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Load Tune & Verify Tune Loaded Correctly
First and foremost load in your startup tune before doing anything.
Make sure you ALWAYS VERIFY that your tune is for you, the first letter will be the initial of your first name.
For example: MPON_170220a.bin
MPON would be for Michael PONthieux, YYMMDD and the revision for that day a,b,c,d,e,f,etc...
When receiving your tune verify it is for you, if not, DO NOT LOAD IT.
Once you have your tune loaded and turn the key on you will hear the fuel pump prime and shut off.
IF THE FUEL PUMP DOES NOT SHUT OFF THEN THE TUNE IS CORRUPT, DO NOT TRY TO START THE ENGINE.
Then set the base fuel pressure to either what we discussed (typically 55psi if you have less than 60lb injectors).
Next verify the ignition timing is at 10 degrees btdc with the spout plug removed. This is VERY IMPORTANT otherwise you can damage the engine.
|For EEC-Vs that have been converted from returnless to return style, the fuel pump will run constantly with the key on unless I have written
custom code and remapped an unused output pin to control the fuel pump correctly. In these cases, verify the ecu is communicating correctly by
starting the log with the key on and pressing the throttle to the floor to make sure the datalog shows you have entered WOT.
When you load the tune in and fire up the engine on the startup tune it most likely WILL NOT BE HAPPY so you'll need to do EVERYTHING you can to
keep the engine running until it gets up to warm operating temperature (warmer than 170* F on the ECT sensor).
Don't worry about how she starts cold or cold idles or how any of that is since it means absolutely nothing, cold enrichment and startup can ONLY
be dialed in AFTER the fuel and idle has been
dialed in correctly.
If the engine doesn't fire up on the first crank, repeat a 2nd time, if it doesn't fire up on the second crank, then HOLD THE THROTTLE TO FLOOR == WOT to enable flood-clear mode,
this will cause the ecu to shut off the injectors. The ecu is pre-programmed to disable the injectors when the pedal is held WOT during startup to prevent flooding.
Flooding the engine with fuel will wash down the rings and can destroy a new engine rather quickly. DO NOT do excessive cranking.
Until we get the fuel dialed in there are a couple things you do not want to do
- > DO NOT go WOT
- > DO NOT do any quick throttle stabs, ease in to the pedal
- > DO NOT drive the vehicle across country
Verify its not overly rich
If you have a wideband watch the gauge and make sure it is LEANER than 0.82 lambda after the engine has been running for at least 2 minutes, if you don't have a gauge then
pay attention to the hegos. IEGO1 voltage should be reading less than 0.800 volts after the engine has been running for at least 2 minutes. If the hego voltage is stuck at 0.700 volts or
higher and is not switching (jumping above and below 0.400 volts) shut the engine off.
If the engine has been running for longer than 2 minutes and the wideband is RICHER than 0.82 lambda then you will need to shut the engine off immediately so i can send you a new tune
with less fuel in it, again if you don't have a wideband make sure the hegos are not STUCK at a voltage greater than 0.400 volts.
Note: If you feel up to it, you can reduce the maf flow at 400 imaf counts on down by multiplying the flow by 0.85 this will expedite the process, be sure to post your modified
tune with your datalog if you do so.
Don't be worried if the wideband reads lean at idle, its safer to be leaner than richer, ideally we want it at 1.000 lambda , but if it idles at 1.23 lambda thats perfectly fine too so don't be alarmed
a lean mix can only harm the engine when your at more than half throttle, otherwise at idle being lean is perfectly fine and won't hurt anything.
WARNING: The check engine light should not be on while tuning, if the check engine light is on while the engine is
running then SHUT THE ENGINE OFF IMMEDIATELY. If the check engine light is on with a tuned vehicle that means the
ecu has detected a MAJOR PROBLEM and you must pull codes immediately to find out why. Note: The CEL will come on at key-on and go off during cranking, that is normal operation.
Once she gets up to warm operating temperature you want to get the ecu into closed loop, it should go into closed loop on its own within' 2 minutes and start adjusting fuel for you, but
if it doesn't you may need to rev the throttle a few times in order to get the hego's to switch to enable closed loop.
You can tell if your in closed loop because LAMBSE1 will be jumping around increasing and decreasing its value, if LAMBSE1 stays at 1.000 then you are in open loop.
Step 1 Log Part A - Warm Stable Idle
For the first log the engine must reach a warm not-surging idle, so once the engine gets up to operating temperature (after 15 minutes of idling from cold start) ,
let it idle on its own (if it can) do not hit the throttle pedal and start logging.
Log at least 75 seconds with the engine at a stable warm idle with no throttle movement,
make sure the ecu is in closed loop, this can be observed by LAMBSE1 jumping around with its value increasing and decreasing AND NOT STUCK at one set value.
During this time while your waiting, I highly recommend checking for any coolant, oil, powersteering, or any other leaks underneath the car, pop the hood and make
sure nothing has come loose, just give it a good double over as you will need to drive it. Double check the brakes and lug nuts are intact and that the brake fluid reservoir isn't empty.
LEAVE the datalog going and proceed in to Part B.
Step 1 Log Part B - Fuel Error - Holdindg increments for fuel error
- The engine should still be running now but if for any reason you had to shut the engine off
DO NOT FIRE IT UP AND IMMEDIATELY BEGIN MAKING THESE IMAF STEPS!!!!
Any time an engine is started it takes approx 3-4 minutes for friction and puddling affects to clear out and allow the engine to stabilize.
Make sure the engine has been running at least
3-4 minutes from a warm startup before doing the imaf steps otherwise the fuel errror will be incorrect.
So if for any reason you had to shut the engine off, be sure you let it 'clear out' before
doing the imaf error log below; otherwise the fuel error will be incorrect.
- Verify the ecu is in closed loop before attempting to work the fuel error.
You must now drive the vehicle to hit each imaf or mapope point. This can be done on a non-busy street or in your own driveway if its lengthy.
I recommend slightly riding the brake to help load the engine and prevent excessive speed, you may also set the handbrake (e-brake) slightly
to help load the engine.
- Once she's in closed loop at a warm idle watch the IMAF (maf voltage ad counts) on the dash and use the throttle pedal to hold the imaf at each 25 ad count increment,
if you are idling at less than 175 imaf ad counts, lightly tap and hold the throttle until the imaf reaches the next 25 imaf increment, either 175 counts, 200 counts, or 225 counts, hold it steady there (ex: at 200 cts)
for 10 seconds
If you have a speed density strategy then instead of imaf look at mapope, you want to try to maintain it through out the rpm range from idle up to redline if you can
So for example: you want to modulate the throttle to try to maintain .40 mapope from idle rpm all the way to max rpm (6k or so).
- Mass Air - Then slightly apply a little more throttle and hold it at at the next +25 imaf ad counts increment (ex: 225 cts), again for at least 10 seconds
For speed density come to a stop, and hold it at the next +0.05 mapope Ex: 0.45 from idle up to max rpm as best as you can.
- Then repeat again for 10 seconds at the next +25 cts imaf increment (ex: 250 cts), hold it for 10 sec
- Repeat this in 25 ad count intervals going up as high up the IMAF (or mapope for speed density) as you safely can or feel comfortable doing. This is a tedious process and will
take several iterations to reach all of the imaf or mapope points.
- Continue until you have to apply half throttle to maintain a specific imaf point or have reached 0.85 mapope. DO NOT EXCEED HALF THROTTLE.
For mass-air, ideally it would be best if you
can reach the highest imaf that corresponds to the rpm you will spin the engine up to (for ex: do not exceed 6k rpm or so to reach any higher imaf points). After you have reached the highest imaf point
you feel comfortable at, let her return to a stable idle for at least 30 seconds. Then stop the log and save it as step1.
Post the log(s) in your Private Progress Thread
After I review the datalog, I'll post back with an revised tune so we can proceed to Step 2.
If you have any issues along the way don't hesitate to shoot me a text or buzz my tele at: five zero four six zero six zero five three two
DO NOT Continue to Step 2 until AFTER being instructed to do so.
Understanding the Step 1 Changes - FYI
I usually start all my custom tunes from my base tunes, I then typically apply the following changes for starters.
|Base Fuel Table||I null ==1.000 so interpolated lambses don't skew my corrections
|WOT Multiplier||assign all 1500+ rpm to wot lambda (just in case someone goes WOT its not commanding lean)
|FN320A||I max it out so open loop is forced only by tprel while i dial it in since fn035 won't be dialed in yet
|WOT Breakpoint||I kick it up along with the OL breakpoint scalar so i can see how the fuel trims up top
|Hego Min Switches||I set it to 1 switch so it goes into closed loop quickly
|BYPLES||I kick it up to 60 sec for initial tuning so the hegos have 60 sec to fail if the fuel is too far out and it can't switch in a shorter period of time
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