Post Tune Adjustment Instructions

Posted: 7-25-2013
Last updated: 9-4-2015

The following ONLY applies to EFIDynoTuning tunes, doing the following on other tunes may cause engine damage.
NEVER return to an earlier tune during the tuning phase, doing so can result in engine damage and/or undesireable results.
The following applies If you will be taking your vehicle to the track or a dyno to get a rwhp number.


It's very easy to make the tune adjustments yourself. The easiest and quickest route to make global adjustments, is to modify the following scalars:
PIDEarly PIDDescriptionTune ValueTest ValueComment
OLMCLGlobal Fuel Multiplier1.000.95reducing this value will RICHEN the mix, a value above 1.000 will LEAN the mix.
SPK_ADDKPS1Global Spark Modifier0.0-3this scalar is a global modifier on spark DO NOT FORGET THE NEGATIVE [-] SIGN otherwise it will add timing
Note: In GUFB and older EEC-IVs SPK_ADD predecessor is KPS1. Your def file may incorrectly label KPS1 as "Part Throttle spark adder" or something along those lines. Rest assured it is indeed the global spark modifier scalar which was replaced by SPK_ADD in the never 94+ ecu's (CBAZA).

PULL 1 - FINAL TUNE

Make your first pull with your final base tune to use as a reference.

PULL 2 - [ SPK_ADD = -3 ] Retard Timing -3 Degrees

SPK_ADD / KPS1 is the global spark modifier scalar, set it to -3 to remove 3 degrees of timing globally and make another pass, if the car runs faster or the same MPH then set it to -6 and make another pass, keep backing it down until she begins to runs slower, do not forget to put the negative [-] in there otherwise it will add timing!!! if she slowed down more than 2 mph with -3 degrees yunk then set it back to 0 and move on to pull 3 to adjust fuel.

PULL 3 - [ OLMCL = 0.95 ] Enrich 5%

OLMCL is the Global Fuel Multiplier scalar, simply change its value from 1.000 to 0.950 to add 5% more fuel globally and make another pass, if the car speeds up or runs about the same then set it to 0.900 to add 10% enrichment and make another pass, keep backing it down adding in 5% more fuel each time until the cars starts slowing down. if she slowed down more than 2 mph when you added that 5% in the first time, then set it back to 1.000 and move on to advancing the timing.

Advancing Timing

At this point you've found where the engine runs best at the richest AFR and that it might want more timing. Begin initially by setting SPK_ADD or KPS1 to 2 to add 2 degrees of timing and see if she picks up. If she slow down or runs about the same set it back to 0.

Note: Boosted engines should not lean the mix or add timing. It's only recommended to experiment with removing timing and adding fuel!!!

These two scalars are the quickest, easiest, and safest way to find where she's the happiest.

To summarize,
Pull 1> Your base pull with your final tune used for comparison
Pull 2> Your final tune with 3 degrees of timing removed (SPK_ADD set to -3) if power increases or reduces less than 12rwhp then move on to enrich otherwise move on to Advance
Pull 3 - Enrich> This tune will have 3 degrees of timing removed (SPK_ADD set to -3) and fuel richened 5% (OLMCL set to 0.950) , this applies only IF the 2nd pull increased power or loss less than 12rwhp than the base pull.
Pull 3 - Advance> If the vehicle lost more than 12rwhp with PULL-2, set SPK_ADD to 2 to add 2 degrees of timing SPK_ADD / KPS1 set to 2

Pull 4 - Leaned> If the vehicle lost more than 5rwhp when ADVANCED, set SPK_ADD / KPS1 to 0

Relearn WOT Fueling

**This step only applies to mail-order and FINAL tunes.
Before going WOT, you MUST, get the engine up to warm operating temperature, then from a steady cruise in last gear at 2000 rpm,
accelerate with 1/4 throttle from 2000 rpm to 2500 rpm, then decel back down to 2000 rpm, accelerate again with 1/4 throttle up to 2500 rpm
and decel again back down to 2000 rpm, repeat this a minimum of at least 5 times.
This is necessary to allow the o2 sensors to adapt to the WOT fueling correction. Your custom EFIDynoTuning tune is setup to reference high load at 2,250 rpm for WOT fuel corrections, any correction learned at this cell will be used for WOT fueling. This is due to the fact that at such a high load and rpm the injectors will reach a linear flow rate, with the tune dialed in, any fueling correction needed at that range will also be needed at WOT. This will allow for changes in fuel blends with no effect on WOT fueling. Anytime you run questionable fuel (perhaps when taking road trips or travelling across country) be sure to let adaptives learn prior to going WOT. This is achieved by cruising on the interstate in top gear at 2000 rpm, accelerate at just over half throttle from 2000 to 2500 rpm, reduce speed back down to 2000 rpm and repeat 2 more times, your WOT fueling is now redialed in for the new fuel blend. Note that the WOT fuel correction is also applied at idle for verification purposes and to prevent excess idle corrections.
YOU MUST DO THIS STEP BEFORE GOING WOT AFTER A POWER LOSS OR ANYTIME THE BATTERY IS DISCONNECTED CAUSING KAM MEMORY TO BE CLEARED.

Adjusting the AFR

In all EFIDynoTuning tunes, for all year ecu's, the "Base Fuel Table" is the table you want to adjust. What ever value you put at the 90 & 105
PERLOAD rows, will become the actual AFR you will have at WOT with 0 vac/0 boost. If your current Wide-Open-Throttle Air/Fuel Ratio is 0.875 and you
want 0.890, simply change the rows from 0.875 to 0.890 and your WOT fuel will now be at 0.890. If you would like to richen your AFR while in
boost, simply change the 120% (and greater) row value from 0.800 to which ever LAMBDA you prefer.
No 'retuning' is required.
It is not recommended to change any of the cells that are set to 1.000 or the last column of 1.992 used to disable fuel during overheating.
THIS DOES NOT APPLY to those using FMU's, if you have an FMU and wish to adjust your AFR, CONTACT ME.

Adjusting Ignition Timing / Spark Advance

In all EFIDynoTuning tunes, spark is simplified down to only one table. The spark table for all 1993 and older ecu's will be the "Sealevel spark table FN904A".
Simply replace the value of the cell you wish to change. Lets say at cruise you log a spark advance of 42 degrees and you want to change it to 48 degrees.
Simply go to the cell that corresponds to the Load/RPM you are experiencing 42 degrees and simply change it to 48 degrees.
No 'retuning' is required.
For all 1994+ ecu's, spark is simplified down to only the "Borderline Knock Spark Table FN2200." Simply replace the value in the cell you wish to change.
If you log a spark advance of 24 degrees and you want 30 degrees. Simply change the value in the corresponding Load/RPM cell from 24 to 30.
No 'retuning" is required.

Base Idle Reset

If for any reason your idle has gone ape-shit, you will invoke a base idle reset in the same procedure are you did in the initial tune instruction. ONCE THE ENGINE HAS REACHED A STABILIZED WARM IDLE.
Stabilized warm idle is defined as being approx. 15 minutes of engine idling time from a cold startup or 5 minutes of idle time from a warm start up.
With the TPS, IAC, and SPOUT disconnected; adjust the throttle body stop screw until the engine idle's at roughly 750 rpm or 50 rpm less than your commanded idle. Once the engine is idling within 50 rpm less than commanded idle, shut off the engine. Reconnect the TPS, IAC, and Spout, BEFORE TURNING THE KEY BACK ON AND RESTARTING THE ENGINE.
Failure to shut the engine off AFTER adjusting the throttle stop and reconnecting the TPS and IAC BEFORE turning the key back on
will result in the ECU using a failure mangement mode. Disregard the closed throttle TPS voltage value, as long as the closed throttle voltage is between
0.4 volts and 1.5 volts it is acceptable. The ECU uses the lowest voltage as a relative voltage of 0, so the voltage is irrelevant so long as its within' this range.
Adjusting the TPS to get a closed throttle voltage of .99 volts is ignorant and will result in faulty idle control.

Resetting the ECU / KAM Memory

Now that the ecu has been properly calibrated for your specific vehicle and engine, the KAM memory will not need to be reset.
It is NOT recommended to reset the KAM memory for any purposes, the adaptive memory can ONLY benefit the tune.
An unintentional memory reset such as a loss of battery power or the vehicle has been down for a while will not warrant any tune adjustments.
If the vehicle has been sitting for an extended amount of time without the engine ran, so long as the injectors and MAF
sensor remain the same as it was when tuned, no tune adjustments are required.

Keep Alive Memory SHOULD ONLY be reset when fuel modeling has been changed
this will occur under the following conditions:
Adjustments made to LAMBSE in the fuel table or otherwise WILL NOT require KAM to be reset.

Retuning Required

Retuning is required under any of the following circumstances



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